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Cinnamon patrol

Mr and Mrs Lili Wedding

 

YASP (Yet another snow-related post)


Like the rest of Northern Europe, we've been hammered by arctic weather. But unlike the rest of northern Europe, we were totally unprepared for it.

This is because, depending on who you listen to, it's the worst winter in 10 years, 20 years, 30 years (says Seamus the postie on RTE1), 50 years or the worst ever.

We're running (or have run) out of salt for the roads, the pavements are a national shame, water mains are bursting hither and thither, and all that is before breakfast.

But I don't mind any of it because this is my first real Northern hemisphere winter. I get to see firsthand water going through it's phase changes in new and exciting ways; like de-icing the car with warm water only to have it refreeze 30 seconds later, and, why, just 15 minutes ago I was driving along when a roof ice-berg broke off and ran down the windscreen completely obscuring my vision - thrilling!

So here's to precipitation in all its forms! To boilers wherever they may be activated! To hot calvados & apple juice! To watching it snow from your desk! To losing feeling in one's face! To winter!


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It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

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New apartment pics


Here some some snaps of the new apartment.

Main bathroom and 2nd bedroom not included, as they are works in progress.

The rental agent's plumber failed to turn up for the final time yesterday, so we have sourced a new plumber ourselves. I'm hoping for good things.

As you can see, our couch is particularly generous. On the days when it's cold and rainy outside (i.e. all of them for the next 4 months), it is quite hard to leave it for work. Often I think of just sitting there and doing a Discovery marathon, punctuated only by the Angelus at 6pm on RTE1.

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Luas down


The red-line Luas got into a pretty nasty crash with the No 16 bus this afternoon in the middle of town.

The Luas is much loved in Dublin, and we wish him a speedy recovery.

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Our thoughts are with those who were injured.

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49,000 people made redundant in Ireland in 2009 (so far)

From http://www.independent.ie/breaking-news/national-news/49000-people-made-redundant-in-ireland-in-2009-1852322.html:

New figures from the Department of Enterprise Trade and Employment show that 49,009 people have been made redundant so far this year. Over 6,350 were laid off last month alone.

The rate of increase for the year to date is 142%.

Director of the Small Firms Association Patricia Callan says that urgent government action is now needed to stem the rise in job losses.

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Key dates in the Irish Republic

Every age has a keyhole to which its eye is pasted.
- Mary McCarthy

1916 - Nationalists stage Easter Rising, seizing the General Post Office in Dublin and proclaiming an independent Irish Republic.

1921 - Anglo-Irish Treaty establishes the Free State, an independent dominion of the British crown with full internal self-government rights, partitioned from Northern Ireland which remains part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland.

1937 - New elections. The voters return de Valera and also approve a new constitution which abolishes the Irish Free State and proclaims Eire (Gaelic for Ireland) as a sovereign, independent, democratic state.

1973 - Ireland joins the European Economic Community.

1998 - The Good Friday Agreement on a political settlement for Northern Ireland is approved by voters in referendums in the Republic of Ireland and in Northern Ireland.

2002 - Euro replaces the punt.

2009 - IKEA opens in Dublin. Some of the staff dressed up like Abba.

The citizens of Ireland are now free from furniture store oppression. There are rumous IKEA furniture comes in different colours and designs - not just the "cheap unpainted wood / I did it in high school" style so popular with all the other discount furniture stores.

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Dublin in NZ Herald

A deluge of posts, I know.

From http://www.nzherald.co.nz/travel/news/article.cfm?c_id=7&objectid=10578079.

Dublin: Lucking in with the Irish

Having a pint or three in Dublin's party central, Temple Bar, is compulsory. Photo / Tourism Ireland
Gregor Paul takes a sip of Guinness and points out the top 10 must-see places when you visit Ireland's popular capital.

1 Visit the Guinness Brewery

Come on - you have to. Even if you are not super enamoured by the black stuff, even if you think it takes like alcoholic Vegemite, the brewery trip still offers plenty.

It is not as horribly corporate and tacky as it could be.

The building is modern, clever, stylish and, as with most things in Ireland, there is a charm about the hosts that helps to sell the whole experience.

And, if nothing else, the trip is worth it for the views from the top floor, where Guinness have thoughtfully built a bar.

2 Visit the Dublin Writers' Museum

Dublin has made a long and significant contribution to the literary world. The list of famous writers to come out of Dublin includes James Joyce, George Orwell, Samuel Beckett and Oscar Wilde.

The Writers' Museum in Parnell Square brings to life that celebrated past with intriguing personal insights. Little known facts, such as Wilde being a promising pugilist during his days at Trinity College, are revealed.

Other little nuggets inform us that Samuel Beckett, had he not turned out to be one of the most influential writers of the 20th century, would also have made a name for himself in cricket.

3 Watch Gaelic sports at Croke Park

The Irish have retained a healthy regard for their own Irishness, their own sense of identity. Which is why their own Irish sports continue to thrive.

Hurling and Gaelic football are the two biggest sports by far in Ireland and there is nothing better than going to the home of those games, Croke Park, and watching them played.

The 83,000 seat stadium is quite magnificent - it is where the All Blacks played Ireland last November.

It is also, of course, the site of the infamous November 21, 1920 Bloody Sunday massacre, in which British troops fired on the crowd during a football match. Fourteen people died in what was one of the most significant events of the Irish war of independence.

The emotion is intense and the experience is never to be forgotten.

4 Visit the O'Connell St Post Office.

What? A post office - what's the point in that? It's just one those things that has to be done. Everyone who goes to Dublin ends up going there. It's a landmark by which all Dubliners guide others.

The O'Connell St Post Office was also the main stronghold of the Irish Volunteers during the Easter Uprising in 1916.

5 Go hunting for U2

Unlike other European countries, the Irish don't have a punitive tax regime that encourages the rich and famous to head elsewhere. There are even incentives to encourage the rich and famous to stay (Ed: Wrong! U2 are famously headquatered in The Netherlands who offer better tax breaks to artists than Ireland).

No one in Ireland is richer or more famous than U2, and frontman Bono can be spotted in the suburb of Dalkay (Ed: Wrong, it's Dalkey). And if you don't find him, enjoy the cute village.

6 See where Posh and Becks got hitched

That's right, the world-famous David Beckham and Spice Girl Victoria were married in Luttrellstown Castle on the outskirts of Dublin in 1999.

The castle dates back to the 15th century and over the years has been owned by the great and good of Ireland, including the Guinness family. Now it is one of the best five-star golf resorts in Europe.

7 Stroll through the grounds of Trinity College

Dublin owes its fame as a literary city to Trinity College - recognised as one of the best and most creative tertiary institutions in Europe.

Not only is it full of smart people, it is in the heart of the city and the fabulous old buildings are flanked by ornate and tranquil grounds.

8 Play golf at the K Club

Scotland is recognised as the home of golf, but Ireland's reputation as a venue of some quality for this curious sport is growing fast. The K Club, on the outskirts of the city, hosted the Ryder Cup in 2006. It is a high quality golf course and if you are lucky, you might find yourself playing at the same time as some of the world's best professionals, who are known to sneak in and out.

9 Have a night out at Temple Bar

It is horribly cliched. It is the domain of stag and hen parties from across the continent, but Temple Bar, on the south bank of the River Liffey in the drinking heart of Dublin, has to be visited. It is loud, brash and not for the faint-hearted but, as long as you respect what you are in for, it can be fun.

10 Head down Grafton St

Grafton St is the beating heart of the capital. It is where you can shop, drink, eat and people-watch. The power of the Irish economy can be seen in action along this street.

The locals have ferocious spending power and there is something inspiring about watching a nation flex its muscle through the power of its consumers (Ed: My god, how out of date is this?).


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Excellent news

Murphy's ice cream are coming to Dublin!

I have loads more to share for a change - knitting, my new qualification, and the world's best postcard. But that will have to wait until I also have some free time.

In the meantime, I recommend fantasising about the chocolate, and chocolate & whiskey ice cream.

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Phoenix Park vs. Cornwall Park

Now that I've started biking around Phoenix Park I was curious to see how it compared size-wise to Cornwall Park in Auckland.

Here's my comparison. The reddish area is Cornwall Park (somewhat rotated so it fits in nicer) and the greenish area is Phoenix park.

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Dublin can be Hell

(Apologies for the crappy mobile phone, out of focus, and badly lit photos)

Sometimes bad things happen and it's not your fault even though you didn't give way 100% properly on the driving test ... and then you walk to the John Gunn on Camden St to process some film and you find that a popular NZ pizza chain has inexplicably opened up in Dublin. Yes. NZ pizza chain. Dublin. Go figure.

So it was a couple of weeks ago when I discovered Hell Pizza on Wexford St (it's really Camden St - or the "street with a thousand names").

Along with smoothies, bagels, sushi, gourmet burgers and all-over body waxing - the modern Pacific-rim trappings we took for granted are slowly migrating to Western Europe and it's hott.

Last Thursday, after Laura's haircut, we finally gave in. Wow - with Macs Gold (Speights too, but less excited) & kumara fries (it's pronounced koom-rah not koo-ma-rah) the pizza was somewhat incidental. The menu appears to be 100% exactly identical the same as back in NZ - right down to the breaded brie.

So if you're in the area, go to Hell, I think you'll like it.

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And now I implore you Burger Fuel Inc - you're in Dubai for god's sake - come here too! We will patronise you! Oh yes we will patronise.


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Smithfield makes the NY Times

As found by Laura @ http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/04/26/travel/26surfacing.html:

(They didn't mention the kids throwing stones and the other unsavoury types - and we'd kind of prefer the horse market found another venue, anyhoo...)

Changing Smithfield Still Holds On to Dublin-Style Fun

Published: April 26, 2009

FOR the last couple of centuries, the two main reasons to visit Smithfield, a diminutive Dublin neighborhood centered around a spacious square northeast of the city center, were to buy a horse at the local equestrian market and to see the red brick distillery where Ireland’s best-known whiskey, Jameson, was made.

The horse market still takes place monthly (though there’s talk of finding a new location), but Jameson moved most of its operations south to County Cork in the 1960s. The neighborhood soon fell into neglect.

But thanks to an urban renewal plan that the city started in 2003, Smithfield has slowly been making a comeback. Each of the square’s 300,000 cobblestones was uprooted, cleaned, polished and put back. Tall, contemporary-looking lampposts bloomed on the circumference of the plus-size plaza, and industrial-chic apartment and retail buildings rose on the western side of the square.

“A lot of people thought Smithfield would be an alternative to Temple Bar,” said Michael T. Hough, a bartender at the shabby-chic Dice Bar (79 Queen Street; 353-1-633-3936), referring to the once-derelict, now pub-crammed central Dublin neighborhood that was transformed into a “cultural quarter” more than a decade ago. “But it hasn’t really got there yet.”

In fact, the recent economic downturn hasn’t been kind to the neighborhood, as a few local businesses have recently shuttered. But Smithfield still has plenty to offer.

The distillery, meanwhile, has been rebranded the Old Jameson Distillery (Bow Street; 353-807-2355; www.jamesonwhiskey.com; admission is 13.50 euros, about $18.20 at $1.35 to the euro) and turned into a museum dedicated to the making of whiskey. Hourlong tours are given in six languages.

The legendary Light House Cinema (Blackhall Walk, Smithfield Market; 353-1-879-7601; www.lighthousecinema.ie), one of the city’s few indie movie houses, closed down when it lost its center-of-town location in 1996, only to resurface last year in a sleekly designed, award-winning space (with a modish cafe open to anyone).

The Maldron Hotel (Smithfield Square; 353-1-485-0900; www.maldronhotels.com; doubles from 59 euros), part of an Irish-owned chain, opened up a Smithfield branch last fall. The chic property’s 92 rooms offer free high-speed Internet access, floor-to-ceiling glass windows, balconies and, in some rooms, great views of the square. Stir, the hotel’s retro-chic restaurant and bar, serves decent globally inspired dishes like cumin-infused chicken strips and Peking duck.

A better dining bet is Peppe (31 North Brunswick Street; 353-1-671-8216; www.pepperestaurant.ie), a southern-Italian-leaning eatery serving thick-crust pizzas (9.50 to 13.80 euros) and hearty pasta dishes (10.90 to 13.90 euros).

Cristophe’s Cafe (Duck Lane; 353-1-887-4417; www.christophescafe.com), by day a casual spot for salads and sandwiches (5 to 10 euros), in the evening turns into a candlelit French bistro offering classics like ribeye steak in a red wine sauce (25 euros) and veal stew in a cream sauce (19.50 euros).

Any visit to Smithfield isn’t complete without stopping by the Cobblestone (77 King Street North; 353-1-872-1799; www.cobblestonedublin.com). There’s been some sort of drinking den in this spot for 150 years, but for the last 15, this popular pub on the north end of the square has become famous for its (sometimes impromptu) Irish music sessions. Both young and old, Smithfield veterans and newcomers turn up for plenty of “craic” (Gaelic for “fun”) and a pint or two of the local brew (that would be Guinness, of course).

No matter how trendy Smithfield becomes, some things, hopefully, will never change.

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Ireland AM

While I was having breakfast, Laura was improving her media profile by knitting on TV. Choice.

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coffee dublin coffee dublin coffee dublin

Just to make the point to Google. This is a public service announcement after all.

If you're in Dublin you'll know that coffee is generally a burnt means to an unpleasant end, but I think this applies to the British Isles generally - and don't get me started on Belgium - which has no excuse. Did we tell you the story of how Laura ordered a chai latte at the Sainsburys-next-to-Ikea in Belfast? They young lady mixed a latte with chai syrup. Really ew.

Surely Aungier St is now the unrivalled coffee centre of Dublin. The Bald Barista has moved up the road to Avalon House. It's great big space which is kind of shared with the hostel there. They're definitely focusing on coffee - I'm not sure what's happening with the food - there is food, but it's unremarkable - but that's missing the point. There's heaps of tables, a few comfy chairs, wifi (possibly free) and no pretension whatsoever. If this were Vienna in the late 19th / early 20th C, then this is where the action would be. The coffee is strong and lovely. Is there any better place to spend a rather lackluster Sunday afternoon? I'll tell you sir, no.

The old Bald Barista /"Evolving with Darwin" premises is still serving great coffee and is headed up by new barista on the block. Mr Zhang I think. He has credentials - he's just a won latte art competition and he's good, evidenced by the fact the place was packed on this very same lackluster Sunday.

And across the road is "brioche". I had occasion to visit twice on two consecutive weekday mornings and I was impressed. For a measly 2 euro dollars you get a very friendly (suspiciously so for the hour) barista (she could be French, but she's not, but she could be) and a decent creamy and slightly caramelly latte which had no hint of burtness badness at all.

For the sake of completeness I need to mention "NOTO Caffé", on Thomas St not Aungier St, and midway between me and work (a great place to be). What to say about Noto... the staff are about as friendly as the people that beg for money next to ATMs. But you get the feeling they've been made to be this way due to long hours, or bad pay, or both. And if you engage them they will sometimes, begrudgingly, treat you as though they do want your custom, a bit, kind of. No idea where it comes from, but the coffee they use is good, really good. Strong, thick, and not burnt. But a lot depends on who your barista happens to be. There's a couple of lads there that are just excellent, and there's a couple of girls who are incredibly variable. I've received some pretty weird beverages from these girls - in one, the milk and coffee had kind of curdled into a pancake sized semi soft wedge - ew.

On a personal note, we bought little stove-top espresso (pictured) at a kitchen supplies shop in Brussels last weekend (we've been looking for a while) and I brought some of the Bald Barista's coffee ("Fixx") back to the homestead. This should be fun.

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We're cool, we do flash mobs

Paddy's day jig outside the Central Bank.

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Life in Ireland, well Dublin really.

I've been meaning to blog about the Irish economy; specifically the banking sector. But I found this, and it's nearly as funny. And I mean no exaggeration when I say it reminds me very much of several of my walks to work.




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Loving me tender

Before I begin, I'd like to be clear: this isn't a post about Valentine's Day or love or smooshy stuff, nor is it about my love of chicken tenders. These are certainly blogworthy topics in my mind, but what I'm actually here to post about is meeting Elvis in the pub last night.

Yes, Elvis. And it isn't the first time I've met Elvis in a pub in Dublin, either. But I digress...

So in response to a slightly lacklustre feeling (associated, no doubt, with a return to relative normality after all the excitement of the world's longest family-visit-trip), David suggested yesterday that we go to Ryan's, a local pub, for "a sneaky pint". I'm not sure why it was sneaky, but it was an appealing idea.

So after leaving work early (5pm! I could see the road without headlights!), we convened at Ryan's with our pint each of Guinness. Ryan's - or, the bit I saw - is vastly superior to our other locals - the Cobblestones (which is unrenovated to the point of yuck, doesn't seem to believe in central heating, and is apparently so dirty that Irish men prefer a bottle of beer as opposed to a pint), and Thomas Reid's (wherein a pint cannot be poured properly, which bodes very ill indeed). Cosy, not fussy, and with a fair few regulars, but in such a way that you still feel comfortable popping in as a not-regular.

We were sitting quietly at our table when David looked up and his eyes widened. I smelled him before I saw him - Elvis, unwashed, and clearly worse for the wear after who knows how many pints. And whilst he had no costume, and spoke in a thick Irish accent, I knew immediately who he fancied himself to be, thanks to a spectacular pair of sideburns.

During the next 5-10 minutes, Elvis made allegations concerning Nicholas Cage's relationship with his daughter, explained the technique that led to his sexual prowess, and speculated on the likelihood of David (ahem) getting lucky that night.

I didn't have the heart (or the breath, I was laughing too hard) to tell Elvis that Lisa Marie had moved on, married someone else, and had twins with him.

Eventually one of the guys behind the bar told Elvis to go away, but my snickering continued long after he moved (his really rather smelly self) along.

As far as Elvises in Dublin pubs go, this one was much lewder than the chap I'd encountered in the Swiss Cottage one evening, who had a reasonable singing voice, and the sense to sing a few songs before hitting on me.

So, Elvis. Not dead, but living it up occasionally at my local pub. Who'd've thought?

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Only snow can make this workable...

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Give Up Yer Auld Sins

I'm a little late to this but discovered it on breakfast TV this morning (who would have thought I'd learn something useful on the otherwise forlorn Ireland AM).

Basically the story went that back in the 60s a school teacher in Dublin (Ms Cunningham) had these bible stories and she had the kiddies read them out and and she taped them. Somehow the tapes fell into the hands of a radio guy and he made them into a CD which did very well. Then Brown Bag Films (which is not 100m from here in Smithfield) made an animated short movie for it which was screened all over the place and nominated for an Oscar. I think they're now available on a DVD for xmas, I think. Anyhoo, so I you.tubed it and they're fantastic. I love them! The accents & the stories themselves, deadly!







... and more on YouTube.

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The national emergency continues

I know you're all very concerned about Ireland's sudden pork shortage, so I thought I'd give you an update on my last post.

Only 10% of the country's pork is affected. But once the pigs get to the processing plant and are processed, they are no longer tracked or traceable. So even though only 10% of the pigs are affected, there's no way to know what meats these poor piggies were made into.

(Poor b/c of the yuckiness they ate, not b/c they died to make delicious bacon or sausages.)

So all Irish pork is a no-go. Including organic Irish pork, which the authorities know is not affected b/c they don't use that kind of feed.

The latter seems extraordinarily unfair to me - organic farming is expensive enough already, and with the big R-word on (that's a RECESSION), it's possible that people will buy even fewer organic products b/c they cost a bit more, so the organic pork farmers are worse off already. Stopping them sell their products when we know they're safe - and there's a suddenly (if temporarily) expanded market for them is just mean.

Or over-protection of the non-organic pig farmers. Either way, I think it stinks like a... a pig slaughterhouse.

So no pork. Still. One of my colleagues has a brother who works in a sausage factory. Apparently he's spending a lot of time in the pub at the moment.

However, we can be grateful (well the brother certainly can, it sounds like a fine way to spend a few days) - there was a concern that cows may have been affected also - which would mean beef and all dairy products could have been contaminated. But it's ok, they're fine.

Thank goodness. Ireland without sausages, rashers, beef, milk (for the endless cups of tea) and cheese (ah the ubiquitous cheese, which apparently goes with everything) - now that's unlivable.

Which reminds me, I must share my chives-and-berries experience someday soon...

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Smithfield on (controlled) fire

Every now and again they turn on the big gas laterns / torches that line one side of the square. The first time it happened I was in the lounge and it scared the pants off me (see last photo!).

There's an ice rink and a Christmas market (so last week) in the square too - as well as, right now, one of those portable radio broadcasting trucks and from the sounds of it, about 3 competing musical acts. I suspect the sausage guy is sitting there in front of his big grill very depressed right now (see previous post).

Some photos for your enjoyments. Tschüs.








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